This article was updated on Jan 14, 2025
The China-constructed high speed train from Vientiane to Luang Prabang (with onward connection by slower train to Boten) is a huge improvement in the country’s travel infrastructure. Prior to this train link being completed your only options were a seven to eight hour minivan journey (or an 11 – 12 hour bus trip) on very rough roads. Now, travellers can book a comfortable, two hour journey on one of the four “C Trains” that run between the two cities every day (with a stop in the always popular Vang Vieng) for about USD $35/pp for a First Class ticket.
We took one of the C Trains each way on this route, and can attest to the comfort of a relatively inexpensive First Class journey. The stations are spacious and comforable (contrary to some blogs there are snacks and coffee available for purchase), and the train itself is similarly modern and clean. The seats are spacious and comfortable, with a great recline angle. The coach itself was gently air conditioned, and the on-board toilet was spacious and very clean. No complaints on any of those aspects of the journey.
The Screening Issue
We read a lot about the particular (peculiar) security screening procedures you will face prior to boarding the train. Security screening at the station are similar to those at an airport. You will be asked to present your tickets and passports upon arrival, after which you are directed to a security screening station. All bags go through an X-Ray screener, and every passenger will be scanned with a hand wand.
There is a listing of prohibited items on your ticket, including:
- Weapons and ammunition of any kind;
- All kinds of explosives;
- Chemicals of any kind;
- Drugs of any kind;
- Sharp objects;
- Animals, both alive and dead;
- Food with strong odors or liquid consistency;
- Liquids, aerosols, and gels (LAGs) – yes, bottled water will be confiscated (*Note: we took some. liquids of 100ml or less in standard airline carry-on, 1L plastic bags and there was no issue.)
These prohibitions are a huge hassle for anyone on the road for any length of time. Travel blogs are replete with stories of people having their expensive Swiss Army Knives and Leathermans confiscated, as well as expensive bottles of sunscreen, makeup and the like.
In our case we left a bunch of items behind at our guesthouse in Luang Prabang – including an expensive Swiss Army Knife, high quality sunscreen, and even mosquito repellent . This wasn’t a big deal for us since we were returning there after our visit to Vientiane. But that’s not an option for most; these prohibitions are real and you need to be aware of them.
Booking Tickets – a unique Laotian challenge
As of March, 2023 a new LCR Ticket app (available for Android & iOS) was launched. We can’t speak to the effectiveness of the app since when we tried to load the iOS version while in Luang Prabang in January, 2025 we received a message saying that the app “Is not available in your country or region”. This was bizarre and frustrating, but kinda par for the course in this space!
Assuming you are able to load the app, apparently you can use it to book tickets relatively seamlessly, but be aware that tickets are only made available three (3) days before your travel date.
This can pose a real challenge during high season and during high travel periods like weekends. A significant complicating factor is that select China-based tour operators are given a 14 day window to block book tickets for tour groups travelling from China. During high season this could mean that the train you want to book is already sold out.
You can use travel apps (the most common being 12Go), or book through your guesthouse or hotel – or any one of dozens of “travel agencies” scattered about in Vientiane, Vang Vieng or Luang Prabang. The same three day buying window applies, no matter when you make the reservation and purchase.
And there’s another catch – and it’s a doozy.
These ticket sellers aren’t actually able to book through Lao Railways. All of them – including online apps like 12Go – have to book through (apparently) approved representative, third-party “agents”. This presents all manner of challenges, many of which we encountered as we booked tickets in February 2024, and apparently still persist today.
Online booking
We pretty much default to online booking for travel anywhere in the world. Apps like Trainline (Europe and the UK), RedBus and 12Go (SouthEast Asia), and even Agoda provide easy to navigate options for booking travel by bus and train. But this ease of booking does not apply in the case of Lao Railway.
You can request a specific booking option, but the app notes up-front that they have to check with a third-party agency to see if the tickets you’ve requested are even available. *To be clear, there is no way for you to see if the option you’d like is available, or if it’s sold out!
In-Person Booking
Your other option (which we actually recommend) is to find a reliable, in-person contact to arrange for tickets on your behalf. If you trust the person running your guesthouse, or the staff at your hotel, they’re likely your best bet for this step.
But even then the process is remarkably cumbersome and frustrating. These contacts have to contact the authorized representatives by telephone to check for ticket availability. In our experience, we found out that our first choice for a train departure was booked, but a much earlier departure was available. “Fine”, we said. “Let’s book that.” But by the time the return calls went back and forth that option had also sold out! So, we were left with only one possible option, the last departure on our preferred travel day. We waited on pins and needles to see if there was availability; lo and behold there was, but then the next wrinkle showed up.
Our very helpful hotel staff informed us that the representative they worked with would only accept cash payments, and we had to pay the hotel right away so they could go get the tickets. We didn’t have 1.6 million kip on hand, so we had to ask the hotel to convince the representative to hold the tickets while we hoofed it to the nearest ATM to withdraw the cash. Thankfully, the tickets were still available; we counted out the cash and walked away relieved.
Do additional research
Trust us, we’re not the only people who find the system challenging. As time passes there are more travel bloggers writing about the LCR experience. We encourage you to do additional research before you make a final decision about booking. (because there are options: see below) Here is one of the best blogs we’ve come across about the process: Roo Wanders – LCR: Review of The Laos China Railway
For real time updates, hints and tips you can also join the “Traveling in Laos” Facebook group. (ya, ya, we know: Facebook sucks but sometimes it’s the only way to access groups like this) The myriad trials and tribulations of travelling on the LCR are a running theme in this group, and there’s always lots of good advice to be had.
Don’t forget the joy of flying!
Lao Airlines has a daily service between Luang Prabang and Vientiane. At time of writing (January 2025) a quick check on a last minute return flight turned up a USD $110 option. The flight is only 45 minutes, and while you need to be at the airport one hour in advance it’s important to note that the airport in Luang Prabang is a whole lot closer that the train station (which is a ridiculously long way out of town, requiring 35-45 minutes travel time) and it’s recommended that you arrive at an hour in advance for the train as well (see below).
We also spoke to a couple of UK-based travelers who scored the same return ticket for USD $80 on a seat sale – which they were able to book well in advance.
For our money (and time/convenience) we’ll always look at flight options in the future before booking the train.
Some final thoughts:
Book as far in advance as possible, and unless you absolutely need/want to use a credit card (not American Express, btw – see another blog about that) we recommend using the in-person method. You can use 12Go to get a sense of how much cash to have on hand for your booking.
Be sure to vet your luggage carefully. If you have something very expensive that you fear might get confiscated find another way to get it to your destination. A couple of options: mail it forward (if you’re going to be at your next spot for a while); find someone you trust who is travelling by bus or minivan to carry your items for you; or, in a pinch, ask a minivan service to bring your item to your next destination for you (be prepared to negotiate a fee for this). Clearly none of these options are preferred, but that’s what you’re left with if you want to take the train.
Get to the train station at least one hour before departure. These trains are in high demand and there is only one scanner at the stations. If you arrive late you may not get onto your train in time (they will leave without you!).
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